How To Install Rear Axle Bearings

In recent years, rear axles have become so robust and reliable that most mechanics have long forgotten how to diagnose and repair them, much less modify them. The rear axle is one part of the vehicle that has evolved over fourth dimension into a variety of designs simply has never been replaced. We tin't say that about many other technologies in the vehicle. While ignition points, carburetors, and lever shocks have faded into obscurity as more precise and efficient devices gradually superceded them, today'southward rear axle designs are not much dissimilar than they were thirty years ago.

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Yes, we have made huge advances in materials to increment strength, developed better mounting structures to control deflection and noise, and designed fifty-fifty better bearings and seals to ensure long-term durability. We have even developed suites of sophisticated tools to analyze and predict the math and physics behind gear reaction loads. Only the same basic function and implementation is axiomatic.

The virtually frequent complaint made of any rear axle is a gear-generated or begetting-generated racket. The next most common complaint is a fluid leak. Fortunately, actual gear failures are very uncommon on modern vehicles, and so gears are typically serviced only when the vehicle owner desires a ratio alter. Altering the axle ratio or swapping a express-slip differential in place of an open up differential tin can greatly change the operation and feel of the vehicle.

For instance, a 500-hp big-block with a ii.73:1 ratio axle volition not launch anywhere most as hard as the same machine with a set of 4.10 gears. However, yous need to resist the temptation to install 4.10 gears simply because it's a larger numerical ratio. First you must understand the issue of tire size on the overall ratio. And you must understand the basic structure and maintenance of axles.

The typical axle axle has to provide the structure to support the gears and differential. Information technology as well needs to provide mounting points for the restriction hardware and break, and must react to loads imparted by every interfacing vehicle system. This chapter covers most of the in-depth processes required to rebuild the complete rear-axle assembly. I will besides include references to specific topics that are covered in other capacity, namely hypoid gear set contact pattern (Chapter half dozen) and express-slip differential rebuild (Chapter 4).

Mutual Axle Problems

To all-time diagnose an beam problem, information technology is e'er preferable to road test the vehicle before violent information technology autonomously unless, of course, the function failed catastrophically and made its ain go out through the beam housing. Most bug tin be lumped into ane of the following categories: noise, vibration, or leakage. Try to isolate the exact circumstances that exhibit the dissonance. Is it occurring during mild dispatch, heavy acceleration, during deceleration, or all the fourth dimension? Does it get worse as you lot drive faster or slower? Listening is an important step as it tin assist guide your pursuit to respond the question, "What broke?"

Dissonance

Typically, noises that become worse equally speed increases are related to bearings or to the bike/tire assembly. Tire noise is usually most prominent around 60 to 80 mph. Noises that change with acceleration and deceleration are typically gear noises. (Vibrations usually point to the universal joints or to driveshaft balance problems.) Clunk noises or thumping noises in the vehicle occurring during direction changes (when shifting from bulldoze to reverse, or when applying and releasing the throttle, or when cornering) are typically from excessive backlash in the hypoid gears, differential gears, or excessive wearable in these components or bearings. Severely worn universal joints in the driveshaft can cause similar disturbances, which are often accompanied by clicking noises.

Clunks or noises that get louder during turns unremarkably propose that something is wrong with the differential gears or instance. Believe information technology or not, fifty-fifty brand-new axles likewise as improperly prepare "rebuilt" axles will make racket that just gets worse with time. Interestingly, the blame for such issues is ofttimes shifted toward the gear manufacturer especially on Internet forums when the truthful crusade can commonly exist traced to a flawed gear setup.

Whining noises or high-pitched sounds that vary with a vehicle traveling at speed in a straight line typically emanate from worn hypoid gears and bearings. Worn bearings usually have a lower pitched sound while worn or misadjusted gears generate a higher pitched sound. If yous hear a whine during acceleration that gets noticeably quieter on deceleration, a worn pinion head begetting could exist the crusade. If the noise is present during deceleration and not acceleration, the pinion tail bearing could be the cause.

Wheel-end bearings are unique for semi-float axles (see Chapter 2) because the inner bearing race is the beam itself. Over fourth dimension, this surface tin vesture considerably, and when it has significantly worn, this type of begetting or surface problem produces a rumbling or roaring noise while the vehicle is in move. You may also notice that the tone changes equally you lot turn back and forth.

Vibration

Vibration can exist one of the trickier bug to diagnose. You want to beginning rule out a driveshaft problem (see Affiliate 8); or it could even be something equally uncomplicated every bit a wheel out of balance. Yous may call up that really cool, sideways burnout y'all did coming around the corner y'all call back, the i that ended with a hard slide into the curb. Well, in this situation, you may take bent your axle. This is far more common than you might recollect. One easy way to check if the axle flange is bent is to measure out runout with a punch indicator.

Mounting a punch indicator on the axle housing and placing the indicator on the flange is the easiest method for measuring axle flange runout. As you rotate the beam shaft, brand sure that shaft does non plunge in or out. I like to push button the shaft inboard and then take the measurements. Typical values should not exceed 0.030 inch.

If the axle shaft is bent, it is harder to detect. I indication is that the shaft is difficult to remove. You can also support the axle with V-blocks and measure shaft runout. Do not endeavour to straighten axles that accept been aptitude, as they were overloaded in the first instance, and now you are just going to overload them more trying to get them straight. This continued overloading weakens the shaft. This is like to bending a paperclip back and forth a few times; it ends up breaking in one-half. They need to be replaced.

Remember that time spent diagnosing a problem is time well spent. The reason to isolate the source of the racket allows you to eliminate the culprit for proficient. Even if yous have already decided to replace all of the bearings and seals (which is highly recommended), you need to wait for other bug that may have caused the bearings or seals to go bad in the commencement identify, such equally a bent axle or a worn seal surface.

Leakage

Leaks are easy to spot; only look very closely for whatever signs of fluid leakage. The easiest leak to repair is the rear-axle housing encompass. Any of the radial lip seals that are on the pinion flange or wheel ends require the axle to be partially disassembled. Commonly clay and debris sticks to the leaking fluid, making it relatively easy to spot the source of the leak. As e'er, practise common sense. I take worked on some vehicles where the engine has leaked so much oil that the entire floorpan is soaked with 30-weight engine oil. Most of the fourth dimension, the source of the leak is obvious. Other times it may not exist as obvious, such as when oil is pumped out of the axle vent. Unintentional overfilling of the axle, or ingesting water during operation, can overfill the axle and cause it to leak.

Radial lip-style seals are very common throughout the unabridged drivetrain to seal rotating shafts. This type of seal is used at the axle bicycle ends and pinion shaft.

Vehicle Training

As discussed previously, the merely minor repair is an axle cover leak. Only nigh any other repair requires removal of the axle shafts for access to the item(s) that demand to exist repaired or replaced. Before getting into the removal of these components, I need to accost some basic items. Get-go off, you demand to accept the vehicle supported on a flat surface with enough room effectually the sides of the machine to permit the axle shafts to be completely removed.

Each beam shaft is typically about 3 feet long and needs to be removed to admission the wheel-terminate bearings and seals. You would detest to have the vehicle parked shut to one side of the garage and take the axle shaft hitting the garage wall before it completely clears the axle housing. It'south similar to removing a camshaft with the motor still installed in the vehicle; you lot need to clear the radiator and air workout condenser. So give yourself enough of room, aplenty time, and patience. Place a jack on the eye section of the beam and enhance the rear wheels off the ground. Exist careful, as each axle housing is unique and you want to avoid damaging the stamped steel cover if then equipped.

It is of import to make sure that you lot have adequate clearance around the vehicle when you brainstorm to disassemble rear axles. I like to place the auto in the centre of the garage for maximum work space on both sides.

The cast center is a good place to lift the unabridged rear axle and vehicle. Merely make certain that the jack is on the casting and not pressing on the stamped-steel cover; otherwise, you could harm or puncture information technology. And if the covers are fabricated out of composites, they volition crack. This Ford axle actually has clearance between the cover lesser and the axle housing, then there is trivial danger of damaging the embrace.

If y'all do enough axle work, a fabricated beam stand that supports the axle by the tubes is very helpful. This basic stand raises the axle far enough off the floor, so you don't accept bend over the housing to work on it. You may also want to add casters with locks, so yous can hands roll the beam around the store.

If you are merely working on axles in one case in awhile, you can use jack stands. This is a fiddling trickier and intendance should be taken considering it is piece of cake to knock them over. However, this is an excellent fashion to back up an beam that has been removed from the vehicle and is easy on the budget.

Alternatively, yous can simply raise the vehicle from the frame rails and back up the vehicle with jack stands. I like to get the vehicle every bit loftier every bit possible and use jack stands to support the frame runway. Then the beam will hang every bit low as possible. But one quick comment about complete axle assembly removal: If you are going to remove the entire axle associates to work on information technology separately, get out the wheels in place and so that you lot tin roll the axle effectually the garage. Otherwise, you volition fight to rest it on a floor jack. Completely removing the entire axle and servicing it on a stand up preserves much sanity.

Or y'all can utilize a few jack stands to aid hold it in place. If y'all have access to a vehicle hoist, then the above doesn't apply to your situation and you should consider yourself fortunate that you don't take to clamber around on the ground and piece of work on your back. If you are only going to be repairing items and not completely stripping, sand blasting, and repainting the axle housing, it is best to avert the hassle of removing brake lines and parking brake cables and break to remove the axle. The hoist allows you to comfortably work under the automobile, so take advantage of that.

Axle Disassembly

With the vehicle safely supported, you tin can get underneath. Advisedly examine the beam, propshaft, brake lines, and even the suspension mounting points. I have worked on some vehicles that accept a horrible clunk noise, only to find that the suspension bushings are excessively worn or the sub-frame mounting brackets take ripped out of the sub-frame. Never look by the obvious culprits. I am non going to cover every axle here, merely rather the foundations of a consummate "typical" axle disassembly.

I have chosen the Ford Mustang eight.8- inch axle, which is similar to the Chrysler and GM axles. The first footstep is to drain the axle fluid. Some axles actually have bleed plugs, but these are few and far between; you lot might get lucky, so be sure to check the lesser for a drain plug. Well-nigh V-8-powered vehicles do non accept drain plugs.

Without the advantage of a drain plug, you need to remove the rear encompass in order to drain the fluid; this is similar to removing the transmission pan. As will be discussed more later on (in Chapter half-dozen), gear oil is extremely smelly and nearly incommunicable to get off your clothes and pare. Make sure that you have planned for that; some folks like to wear latex gloves for this function of the work. First, remove every other bolt, and so remove all of the bottom bolts. Next loosen and back out the remaining few acme bolts but exercise not remove them completely, to prevent the embrace from falling into the drain pan. The covers are ordinarily held in place and sealed with a paper gasket or a bead of Room Temperature Vulcanizing (RTV) sealant. Slip a standard flat-bract screwdriver between the embrace and the axle and lightly pry the cover away. Be conscientious not to score or damage the mating surface of the housing and the comprehend because this would prevent these 2 parts from sealing properly.

In one case all of the cover bolts have been removed, a little persuasion with a screwdriver and hammer is often required to separate the encompass from the housing. Just a low-cal tap with the hammer usually does the trick. (Randall Shafer)

Once the encompass is removed, you get your first glimpse on the internals of the axle. The band gear is on the left, and the differential is bolted in place. This is a Ford-manner traction lock differential (see Chapter 4). (Randall Shafer)

A single bolt holds the differential pivot in identify. If y'all do not come across it on your awarding, rotate the differential 180 degrees because chances are it is on the opposite side. Once the differential retention commodities is removed the pin can be pushed out. (Randall Shafer)

For most applications, the differential pin slides out. In some instances, especially a heavily worn differential, grooves may be worn into the pin, which makes the pin much more difficult to remove. This item pin shows the usual wear marks (the two ovals in the middle of the shaft) from the axle shaft striking it. (Randall Shafer)

The fluid will brainstorm pouring out of the gap that you have created. Accept a drain pan in place to catch the fluid. Now you can remove the remaining bolts and the cover can be completely removed. At this indicate, you should come across the band gear and the internals of the axle itself.

The next step is to rotate the differential and ring gear assembly in order to gain access to the differential pin retaining bolt.

Loosen and remove the commodities in order to allow the differential pin to come up out. On almost axles the differential pivot can be lightly pushed out. With some axles subjected to hard utilise, and as a event the differential pinion gears take worn into the pin, removal is difficult, but the differential pin nevertheless needs to come out for servicing. Worst case scenario is to make it there with a torch and cut it out. This is extremely hard, so take your time and try to force stubborn pins out. You may demand to get creative. Unremarkably if you tap the opposite end of the pin where the bolt went in you tin drive the pin out slightly and and then rotate the differential 180 degrees and insert the bolt in the pivot hole to try to pry it out of the example.

With the differential pin out of the way, the axle shafts can now be pushed inboard to give admission to the C-washer that holds them in place. Showtime, yous need to remove the wheels.

Then the brake hardware needs to exist removed. This can be as simple as removing the drums or as involved equally removing the restriction calipers, caliper brackets, and rotors.

At times, specially on off-road vehicles that accept had the wheel ends submerged in water and mud, the brake drums are corroded in place. At that place are a few methods to coerce the drums off. You can drive them farther on with a hammer by hitting them on the flat part between the stud holes. A trick that works quite well is to place one hammer on the flat surface of the drum betwixt the studs and striking information technology with another hammer. You can use a puller to yank them off or y'all may have to resort to heating them with a torch to become them off. I accept seen some drums and rotors that actually end up cracking before they come off. In those extreme cases, the drum or rotor needs to exist replaced.

Before working on the axle itself, outset remove the wheels. Use an bear upon gun to remove the lug basics. (Randall Shafer)

Almost muscle cars take factory pulsate brakes. While many of the newer vehicles, such as this Mustang rear beam, come up equipped from the factory with rear disc brakes. There are, of course, aftermarket disc brakes available for well-nigh common applications.

Some brake drums or rotors that have not been removed for decades or are corroded, rusted, and almost always hard to remove. Every bit a terminal resort, you may need to bring out the "gas ax" and apply some rut. (Randall Shafer)

This tone wheel provides a speed signal back to the anti-lock brake organisation that measures speed of the cycle. Be conscientious so yous don't impairment this sensor. Yet, if yous do, they are relatively inexpensive and most chain parts stores accept them in stock.

This particular sensor requires an inverted torx socket in order to remove it from the axle. If you don't have this tool, yous may have difficulty removing the sensor. You really want to avert using vise grips.

If your last resort was to apply heat to the drum or rotor, y'all may terminate up with some harm. Typically, the seals are ruined, just they should exist replaced anyway so this isn't a concern. In this situation, we actually concluded up melting the speed sensor.(Randall Shafer)

Depending on what year Ford 8.8-inch you lot are working on, you lot may have to deal with the ABS tone wheel sensors first. This manner first went into product on the Mustang SN95 chassis.

The sensor needs to exist moved slightly inboard then that the axle tin can travel inboard the correct amount to expose the C-washer. Remove the sensor retaining bolt from the dorsum side of the sensor, and then push the sensor inboard about one/four inch. The plastic sensor is very frail and like shooting fish in a barrel to damage. Since the sensor may be corroded in place, exist very conscientious because it may be hard to motility. If you interruption information technology, but replace information technology with a new one. In the instance where a torch was required, we concluded upward melting the sensor.

Now the axle should freely slide inboard. It volition get in about i/2 inch or so. This is enough to expose the C-washer from its retention pocket in the side gear. In some cases, the washer but falls out. In others, information technology may be held in place with an O-band or just stuck from the lube motion picture. The clip is tricky to remove if you are working on a limited-slip differential, and so it'due south helpful to use a magnetic pick-upward tool to reach in and take hold of the washer.

Repeat this process for the other side. So the axle shafts can be removed from the axle housing. It is best to back up the shaft at the wheel end because this helps protect the bearing and seal from damage. Yous need to keep in mind that the seal has likely been damaged from the years of brake dust and rust, accumulated on the axle shaft, that was forced into the seal surface to become the C-washers out. It is practiced do to ever supercede the seals with highquality replacements any time the axle is disassembled.

The cease of the axle has a relief or notch machined into it to arrange the C-washer. Keep in mind that this is the only thing holding the beam and cycle in place laterally on nearly beam-axle vehicles.

Advisedly audit the axle shafts in the seal and bearing expanse, especially if you are going to re-utilize them. Refer to Chapter 7 for more details on this inspection.

At this signal, you may want to check the gear pattern and backlash earlier the axle is disassembled any further. (Backlash and pattern checks are discussed in detail in Chapter six.) This is only required if you are planning to re-use these components, and this information can be helpful to identify a problem surface area. Now you lot can re-install the differential pin and thread the retention bolt a few threads merely to keep everything together. This step is not required, simply it helps keep clutter to a minimum, which is specially important if you are working on multiple projects at in one case.

The ring gear and differential bearing caps are next in line to be removed. These caps are like engine principal begetting caps and are machined in place, and then marker them earlier removal to make sure they are returned to the correct orientation.

The C-washer tin be difficult to catch and extract from inside the differential. Needle-olfactory organ-fashion pliers can be helpful or a simple magnet on a stick like this green unit of measurement work quite well for this task. (Randall Shafer)

1) As you remove the axle shafts from the housing, it is always a expert thought to support them with ii hands. This stops the spline finish from falling in the axle tube and dragging beyond the tube, bike bearing, and seal. The seals will exist replaced every bit a thing of course. (Randall Shafer)

The C-washer slides into the groove that is machined into the end of the axle shaft. This groove is just past the splines and retains the beam shafts in the housing. (Randall Shafer)

Mark the bearing caps and housing so you know which side they came from. You need to mark them so you know which end is up. These caps must go back in place exactly as they were removed; they are machined in place with the housing. (Randall Shafer)

The differential example bearings are preloaded, and therefore installed with an interference fit, and then they tin can exist difficult to remove and install. The beveled border of the shim is installed toward the axle housing. You lot desire to have the full surface confronting the bearing cone. (Randall Shafer)

Since the differential is installed with an interference fit, information technology tin be hard to remove. Unremarkably prying is required to remove the differential, merely you demand to exist careful hither and not pry on the ring gear teeth. There is a high probability if creating micro fractures and cracks or damaging the molar contact surface. Also, if you lot are performing this stride while the beam is still in the vehicle, exist careful that the differential does not autumn out of the axle and hit the ground. This is a certain recipe for damaging the gear teeth.

One time the differential and ring gear are removed, you should have a good view of the pinion head. This mill gear really has the 3.73:one ratio stamped into the pinion caput along with the part number. (Randall Shafer)

The manual tool simply slips in the terminate of the transmission and stops the fluid from draining out. According to NHRA regulations, a driveshaft safe loop needs to be installed on this vehicle. (Randall Shafer)

This tool is a plastic plug of the proper size and tin can be helpful to keep the transmission from leaking fluid once the driveshaft has been removed. (You can purchase an array of these to cover almost common applications.) An former driveshaft tin piece of work or even a small-scale plastic bag that is held in place with a rubber ring tin work in the brusk term. (Randall Shafer)

An air impact gun is used to remove the pinion nut. We simply need to lightly take hold of the pinion flange in social club to finish it from rotating, which makes quick work of removing the pinion nut.

Since the pinion spline typically has a slight helix, the flanges may require a puller to remove them. You can fabricate this tool for the GM half-round-manner pinion flange. It is a 3 x 4-inch slice of steel stock with the bolt pattern drilled in and nut welded in the center. This unit has a dual design for multiple-size U-joints.

At times, the pinion may require some force to overcome the bearing fits. Hither we left the pinion nut partially threaded in place to go along the pinion from completely coming out the other stop of the axle. (Randall Shafer)

Depending on the flange type, you lot may be able to use a traditional jaw-style puller. The GM half-round requires a tool that bolts to flange, and the middle bolt really extracts the flange. This tool uses the same working principle as a harmonic balancer remover for an engine.

Once the pinion is removed, the begetting races or cones can be easily seen. The top port in the housing is what feeds the begetting with oil while the port on the lower left is the return port.

You need a long punch and hammer to drive the pinion caput bearing race out of the housing from the front end of the axle. (Randall Shafer)

Bulldoze out the pinion tail bearing race from inside the axle housing. Again, you need a suitable-length dial and hammer. When performing this step in the vehicle, it may be difficult to become a straight shot to hammer the punch. Be careful; you exercise not want to accidently hitting the suspension components or dent the fuel tank. (Randall Shafer)

Once all of the gears and begetting races take been removed, you should be left with just the cast center section. On this unit, the magnetic fill plug is however in place as seen in the 10 o'clock position. Notice that in that location is metallic debris stuck to it that needs to be cleaned off. (Randall Shafer)

At present remove the differential carrier and ring gear assembly. Exist careful here because this is a heavy piece. If you are uncomfortable doing the removal yourself, get some assist. Compounding the difficulty, the differential should be preloaded or have an interference fit to the axle housing that prevents it from beingness easily removed. If y'all await closely, you lot should be able to see the shims betwixt the bearing races and the housing. Now pry the differential case out of the axle. You tin typically place the end of a prybar in the window of the differential case to help pry the assembly out. Or you can pry on the ring gear mounting bolts and the beam housing. Just don't pry on the ring gear teeth because you may damage them. Also, exist prepared for the weight of the unit when it comes out. You don't want information technology to fall on the ground.

You need to keep track of which side the shims came from. This is important later on when you re-get together the axle. At this point, you should have a practiced view of the last internal gear left in the beam housing.

In society to remove the pinion, commencement remove the driveshaft. On about vehicles, this is bolted to the pinion axle flange and its contrary end merely slips into the dorsum of the transmission. It is a skilful idea to marker the position of the propshaft flange relative to the axle flange. From the vehicle assembly plant, the axle and propshaft imbalances are offset to cancel whatsoever vibrations. (For more data on propshaft joint styles, run across Chapter eight.)

Now simply unbolt the propshaft from the beam flange (some prying may be required for removal) and then slide the yoke out of the manual. When the yoke comes out of the transmission, chances are that the transmission will begin leaking fluid. Be prepared for this with your drain pan. You lot can slide a plastic cap tool in identify to finish the transmission from draining.

You lot can fifty-fifty leave the propshaft in the transmission; just move the axle cease portion of it out of the way and secure information technology there.

Before nosotros remove the concluding function of the geared beam associates we need to loosen the pinion flange nut.

One time the nut is removed the flange can be removed. On some axles the flange slides off, but near crave some force. There are 2 methods for removing a stubborn flange. The offset is to employ a puller tool.

The second method is to use a dial on the pinion to drive the pinion into the axle and later off the flange. This volition probably damage the bearings but you lot should supervene upon them anyway. If you lot use this method, make certain that yous support and grab the pinion from inside the axle. As e'er, do non let these parts to fall on the ground, which will surely damage the gear teeth. In one case the flange is removed, you can slide the pinion out with the head bearing and the crush sleeve still in place.

At present that the pinion is out, y'all have admission to the bearing cones and pinion seal.

Utilise a large pry bar or even an erstwhile axle shaft to remove the axle shaft wheel end. Chances are pretty skilful that your bicycle end and brakes are rusty and dusty like the beam, so you lot may demand to replace some of this hardware. (Randall Shafer)

The cycle terminate bearing can exist tricky toremove. With this foot, the tool sneaks backside the bearing, and then yous tin remove it. (Randall Shafer)

The foot on the tool swivels and slides inside the bearing. In one case past the bearing, the foot folds down and catches on the bearing. (Randall Shafer)

The foot will firmly catch on the behind of the bearing race, then you tin can remove the bearing. (Randall Shafer)

Information technology is simply a thing of a few hits with the slide hammer and the begetting will usually pop out. Some of the more stubborn bearings require more effort, only this large slide hammer makes quick work of removing the begetting. It sure beats trying to cut and grind the begetting out. (Randall Shafer)

Once the bearing and seal are removed, you should take a clear view of the within of the axle tube.(Randall Shafer)

Place this blazon of bearing removal tool around the dorsum side of the begetting race, and tighten the two halves together. Pull only on the race and non the roller or muzzle. This tool works well when you can become backside the bearing race. (Randall Shafer)

This multi-piece clamshell-way bearing-removal tool works nifty. This specialized tool is just for pinion bearings. Here the tool is partially installed so you lot can see the clamshell portion. (Randall Shafer)

In one case both of the clamshell halves are in place, an outer sleeve (blue neckband) is installed, which keeps the halves in place while y'all remove the begetting.(Randall Shafer)

Use standard micrometers to precisely measure out the thickness of the pinion caput bearing shim. Make sure you get an authentic measurement of this shim as this shim thickness volition exist adjusted past very pocket-sized increments of 0.002 inch. (Randall Shafer)

Now you can thread the lead screw and the tool draws the begetting off the pinion caput as you tighten the commodities. Here, nosotros are using an air affect gun to rapidly remove thread the lead screw. This is similar to the function of almost typical bearing pullers. (Randall Shafer)

In one case the pinion head has been removed, you should see the head bearing shim. Expect closely, the shim is thin and may stick to the pinion head from the oil and alloy in. (Randall Shafer)

The best style to remove the bearing races from the beam housing is to use a punch and drive them out from the opposite end. The pinion seal can be removed with a pry tool or driven out with the pinion tail bearing race.

Now the middle section of the beam should be completely disassembled. The remaining parts installed on the axle are the bicycle-end bearings and seals. The seals can be pried out, just like the pinion seal in a higher place.

Now you can access the wheelend bearings, which are cylindrical roller bearings. The axle shaft is the inner bearing race, so with the axles removed, you can see the rollers. Nosotros are using a tool with a foot inserted backside the bearing to apply the strength necessary for removal.

This tool has a slide hammer on the other stop to allow removal of the begetting.

Ordinarily, bearings popular correct out with a few strikes from the slide hammer.

At this betoken, the axle's internals have been completely disassembled and are almost ready for cleaning. Before I cover cleaning, let's remove the final bearings from the differential case and pinion shaft. The tapered roller bearing can be removed in a few means. The destructive method is to cut the cage with a set of side cutters and remove the cage and rollers. Then cut off the inner race with a pocket-sized cutoff cycle tool. Cut the race at a 45-caste bending to avoid the cutter wheel nicking the gear or differential case. Another method is to apply any one of a variety of bearing tools.

Or, you can remove the pinion bearings with the clamshell-manner tool. This tool is very helpful but not everyone has i. If you are going to exist working on many axles, you lot can probably justify the expense of such a tool.

The master reason to remove the begetting, besides the obvious goal of replacing the bearing, is to gain access to the pinion caput shim.

Most pinions have the shim behind the bearing to properly locate the pinion. Dana axles are an exception, where the shim is located between the pinion bearing race and the axle housing itself. Even some of the newer Dana axles accept pinion shims behind the head bearing on the pinion and behind the caput bearing race in the housing. Now is a good time to measure the thickness using a micrometer, and tape information technology. (For more data on shims and gear patterns, run across Chapter 6.)

The differential bearings can typically be removed with a bearing spreader or cut off every bit described above. (For instructions on band gear removal, meet Chapter 6.)

Cleaning and Inspection

Outset from the within and piece of work your way out in the cleaning procedure. I utilise a liberal corporeality of cleaning solvent in this procedure. Restriction cleaner is a good pick because information technology does not leave a residue. Spray the entire inside of the axle housing, taking special attending to clean the lube ports for the pinion and all of the commodities holes.

Liberal amounts of cleaning solvent should be sprayed inside the housing to thoroughly rinse out debris and oil. We like to use brake cleaner because it is relatively inexpensive and dries without leaving a film. (Randall Shafer)

Standard shop rags and a long bar piece of work great to make clean the inside of the axle tubes. This is like to cleaning a gun butt. We thoroughly wet downwardly the rag with solvent and push it in the axle tube. (Randall Shafer)

We first remove the old sealant, make clean out the old thread holes, rinse every-thing, and finally accident everything dry with shop air. This ensures that nosotros have a good clean surface to seal the cover dorsum in place. (Randall Shafer)

We keep pushing shop rags through the tubes until they no longer are dirty. Just like a surgeon does, we demand to make sure that all of the rags are accounted for. Nosotros exercise not want to leave one within the axle tube.(Randall Shafer)

This begetting driver tool is the correct diameter to match the bearing. With this type of tool, it's far easier to get the bearing straight during installation and the process goes quickly. We tin even have the other begetting on our finger, and so we just go to the other side and quickly install it. (Randall Shafer)

The wheel cease begetting should be driven to the shoulder. Notice that the bearing is below the end of the axle housing tube. The seal is pressed into place on the extra part of the tube.
(Randall Shafer)

If yous exercise non have the correct size of bearing race driver tool, y'all tin can use a punch to install the pinion begetting races. Alternate between pinnacle, bottom, and side to side in guild to drive the race straight in the housing. You lot should hear a definite solid audio equally y'all fully seat the race. Make sure that you are tapping on the edge of the race and non the bearing running surface. (Randall Shafer)

Nosotros want to pre-lube the bicycle end seal with grease before installation. We need to grease the surface that will be in contact with the axle shaft.(Randall Shafer)

In order to avoid any types of leaks, we apply a sealant to the outside bore of the seal surface, which is the part of the seal that will be in contact with the housing. (Randall Shafer)

Here nosotros are using a hammer to drive the seal into place. Intendance must be taken to not tilt the seal during installation. A seal driver can also be used for this task. (Randall Shafer)

The seal has been properly installed flush with the stop of the axle tube. Now yous repeat the bearing and seal installation for the other side of the axle. (Randall Shafer)

Merely every bit with the wheel end seals, you grease the pinion seal inner lip before installation. This seal besides has a lip to make it easier to install. You just need to install it flush with the housing. (Randall Shafer)

Every bit earlier, apply some RTV to the outer border of the seal to make full in whatsoever damaged areas on the housing. This actress pace goes a long way to avoid leaks. (Randall Shafer)

Once properly installed, the pinion seal should look like this. Observe that the pinion tail begetting is now trapped in place. This ways that y'all installed the tail bearing earlier the seal. (Randall Shafer)

The pinion caput bearing is pressed onto the pinion stem. Observe that we are using a traditional hydraulic printing and an old bearing inner race as a guide to printing on the new bearing. As you accumulate former bearings, you tin can use them as press tools. We already had the pinion shim on the shaft before nosotros installed the bearing.

Nosotros are pushing the pinion in from the open terminate of the axle and installing the flange from the other end. On some axles, like the GM 12-bolt, the pinion is a very tight fit to the tail bearing and you volition need to tap the flange on while holding the pinion.(Randall Shafer)

Here is the pinion fix to install into the axle housing. Discover that the shim, head begetting, and new beat sleeve were already installed prior to putting the pinion in the beam housing.(Randall Shafer)

Now clean off the cover sealing surface. It is of import to go this surface clean and free of whatsoever one-time gasket material and oil. This helps ensure a good seal surface for the gasket or RTV. Perform a similar operation on the wheel stop and inside the beam tubes. Thoroughly rinse the seal and bearing bores on the wheel ends and then rinse the inside of the beam tubes. Moisture down rags with solvent and push them down the beam tubes and call up them from the center section of the beam. Do this a few times on each axle tube to make sure that they are make clean. You can use a long screwdriver or even a broom handle to push the rag down the tube.

Give the internal section another final rinse of solvent and blow it out with shop air. Y'all can't brand things as well make clean here.

Beam Reassembly

The cycle ends tin can be tackled side by side. Commencement, drive each begetting into the axle housing until it is completely seated.

Then the seals tin can be installed. Grease or liberally apply gear lube on the inside of the seal lip before installation.

And then apply RTV sealant to the outside surface of the seal.

Now the seal can be driven into the axle housing.

With the wheel finish completed, concentrate on assembling the gears and differential. Outset, drive the pinion bearing races into the axle housing.Just line up the bearing races and, with a suitable size punch, bulldoze them into place. Tap evenly effectually the race in society to install it straight.

Y'all demand to repeat this procedure for the pinion tail bearing race on the front of the axle. At present set the pinion tail begetting in place. Be sure to lightly lubricate it, along with every subsequent bearing you install, with the correct gear oil. At this bespeak, the pinion seal can exist installed.

Notice that the pinion seal keeps the bearing in place. You tin no longer remove the pinion tail bearing without removing the seal first. Put the correct shim on the pinion and printing the pinion bearing in place. Be careful here to make sure that yous printing on the bearing inner race and non the cage.

Next, install a new crush sleeve. At present you lot can reinstall the pinion into the axle housing.

Since there are no shims behind the differential bearings, we need to make certain to fully seat them. Again, we are using an old inner bearing race as a spacer to printing the new begetting in identify. These are but the right size to make certain that we do not accidentally press on the bearing cages. (Randall Shafer)

The differential is partially installed in the axle housing. The bearing cups are in the axle housing, and we are lightly prying the begetting in place to allow admission to push the shim in place. This is one of the more difficult tasks and requires some finesse. (Randall Shafer)

The shim has a light-dark-green stripe painted on it and is partially inserted in place at an bending. At this point, you lot should get the other side shim in identify. The beveled edge of the shim goes toward the housing. (Randall Shafer)

This tool can be homemade; information technology is basically a semi-circle that matches the shim diameter cut out of a piece of apartment steel plate. These tools are too available from virtually axle parts suppliers but not typical car parts stores, and then you want to plan ahead. The tool drives the shims into place. And so the plate just needs to exist trimmed similar this one. After some use, the stop mushrooms over, which tin easily be ground off.

Hither is another option to drive the shims and bearings abode. Find that this tool has GM 12-bolt stamped on it. We are using information technology on a Ford 8.8-inch axle. Both axles are quite similar and actually utilize the aforementioned bearings, and there-fore, one tool works for both. You want to make sure that the begetting and shims are fully seated. (Randall Shafer)

Once the shims and bearings are in place, we tin can install the caps and torque the bolts. Just every bit with any other fastener, tighten the fastener in stages. (Randall Shafer)

A barracks bearing cap for a GM 12-bolt rear axle is on the left; the OEM cap is on the right. Marker Williams Enterprises made the billet cap, which requires machining to fit the axle and cannot exist installed out of the box.

The mill stamped-steel embrace is on the correct; an aluminum structural cover is on the left. Notice the fill and drain plugs (top and bottom) along with the bearing cap preload bolts at the 3 and 9 o'clock positions. (Randall Shafer)

On the within of the structural embrace you over again tin see the bearing preload pads that are adapted later the cover is installed. These structural covers are a neat upgrade to the axle. (Randall Shafer)

Some of these covers even come with cooling fins to help reduce the lube temperatures. This unit of measurement comes painted.

The covers tin also incorporate lube-level dipsticks. This is dandy but not required. How often practice yous cheque your axle oil level, or demand to?

Apply a small-scale amount of RTV on the flange spline area. This keeps oil from wicking past the splines and leaking later on. Then skid the flange on the pinion, install the nut, and tighten until y'all achieve the correct pinion begetting preload (meet Chapter half-dozen). 1 method to make certain that the bearing races are completely seated is to tighten the pinion nut until the correct preload is achieved and then with a soft punch (usually contumely or aluminum), tap the pinion head, not the teeth, and the opposite side of the pinion stem into the beam housing. And so check the pinion torque-to-plough again and adjust accordingly.

Next, install the bearings on the differential case. At that place are no shims behind these bearings.

Now you merely need to install the ring gear. Notice that the ring gear slips over nigh of the differential case; simply the last 1/2 inch is a slight press fit that locates the gear relative to the carrier. Slip the ring over the differential example, first threading the bolts to make certain that the holes are lined up, and press it into place. (Refer to Chapter six for the detailed steps required to properly install the ring gear.)

With the ring gear bolted to the differential, install the differential assembly with the proper shims in the axle housing. As information technology was to remove, the differential associates tin can be a piffling tricky to install considering of its weight and the slight interference fit between the shims and the housing. Information technology is helpful to first identify the differential loosely in the beam housing, and fix the bearing cups and shims in place.

Button the differential in identify and exist careful that the shims don't fall out. This tin can exist difficult and commonly the shims need to exist tipped in slightly.

Once everything is in place, utilise a tool to tap the shims and bearing into place.

Now install the begetting caps in their right location and torque them accordingly.

It is a good idea to double-cheque the backlash and pattern at this point, just to be on the safety side.

There are some companies that sell aftermarket barracks begetting caps for popular axles. The cap should be installed on the ring gear side (commuter's side) of the beam where the highest forces are reacted. These are not straight bolt-upwards parts. Just as the axle manufacturer machines the OEM bearing caps at associates, a replacement cap must also exist machined to fit properly.

If the differential pin is installed, temporarily remove information technology. Carefully slide the axle shafts into the beam tubes, making sure to guide them over the new wheel-end seals and bearings. You lot don't desire the axle shaft spline to damage the new seals. In one case the axle shafts are lined up with the side gears and installed deep plenty to expose the C-washer groove, simply install the C-washers and push the shafts dorsum outboard. This allows the C-washers to fully seat in the counter bores in the side gears. Repeat for the other side and then install the differential pin and differential pin retaining bolt. Make sure that you use thread locker on the differential pin bolt and torque accordingly.

When the preload bolts are completely loosened from the outside, the stud should stick out like this. Notice the jam nut on the stud; this will be of import to maintain the correct adjustment later. (Randall Shafer)

Here is a view of the bearing cap preload pads from inside the cover. They should not contact the bearing caps at this point. (Randall Shafer)

Brand sure that you lot have the right encompass for your application. Here, you can see the depth difference of two covers for the same axle. 1 vehicle application has a panhard bar for the suspension while the other does not. The panhard bar application requires a shorter cover.

Some gasket agglutinative is applied to the cover surface, so the gasket stays in place during installation for a good seal. (Randall Shafer)

We too apply the gasket adhesive on the axle housing. The black horizontal bar is the rear anti-sway bar and makes the encompass a lilliputian more complicated to install. (Randall Shafer)

Once the gasket is set in identify on the cover, we are ready to install the encompass on the axle housing, and then we put a couple of bolts in the holes to help line it up. (Randall Shafer)

For the bearing preload bolts, nosotros apply some black RTV on both of them. We removed the jam nuts at this stage in society to gain articulate admission to the threads. (Randall Shafer)

Hither is the cover in place with some of the bolts started. Again, note the washers under the bolts and the fill up and drain plugs. (Randall Shafer)

We are at present ready to tighten the preload bolts to the correct specification, and then belongings them in place while we tighten the jam basics. Notice that we use a unique socket with a hex on the back stop that allows for a boxed stop wrench and still allows the hex wrench to be inserted in the center.(Randall Shafer)

The typical stock fill up plug location is on the forepart side of the pinion portion of the housing. It's typically on the forward-facing surface of the beam and has a square drive that requires a 3/8-inch ratchet extension to access them. Make sure that you clean the internal square of rust and grime and lightly tap in the extension before yous try to loosen information technology. They can be stubborn at times, and you practise non want to strip out the square drive.(Randall Shafer)

Adding a replacement structural cover helps support the begetting caps and the beam housing. Remember of the axle as a box without a chapeau on it. The box is not very potent until there is a hat properly attached to it. Castaluminum aftermarket covers can provide that additional support and structural integrity. The stock stamped steel covers provide some support, merely very little when compared to the aluminum covers. Furthermore, many of the aftermarket structural covers are equipped with a drain plug for user-friendly fluid removal.

Whether you choose to re-use the old embrace or upgrade to a structural cover, you need to seal the encompass dorsum to the beam. This is a keen upgrade that you may want to perform on your axle during a normal lube change. The structural covers typically provide better fill and drain plugs, meliorate cooling, and more lube capacity plus the additional structure. These covers are factoryinstalled on many of the larger truck axles. Most kits come with a replacement gasket, but go along in mind that about axles from the factory are just sealed with gasket sealer. Make sure that both surfaces are clean of any old sealant, gasket fabric, and gear oil.

For the structural cover, nosotros chose to use the gasket. We first loosened the bearing caps preload fasteners, Later, these preload bolts will exist lightly tightened to provide additional support between the begetting caps and the cover, after the perimeter bolts are tightened.

We sprayed a gasket adhesive on the axle housing and cover to help agree the gasket in place during installation.

Now it is simply a matter of installing the cover and bolts. Don't forget to put washers under the heads of bolts. Then torque them to the required specification.

Apply sealant to all of the threads on the encompass. Remove the drain plug and apply a dab of RTV sealant on the threads. You need only a pea-size amount to exercise the trick.

Now set the bearing cap preload. Apply some RTV to these threads.

The final stride is to fill the beam with the correct corporeality and type of lubricant. Don't forget to add friction modifier if your differential requires it. (See Affiliate half-dozen for more information on gear oil and friction modifiers along with proper break-in procedures.)

Re-install the fill up plug and install the drums and wheels. Torque the lug nuts and lower the vehicle to the ground.

Summary

You have been shown the major and minor steps required to completely disassemble, make clean, and reassemble a typical axle axle. You can run into that it is a fair corporeality of piece of work, and this work needs to be performed carefully in order to obtain ideal results. The details are very important but the task is very doable with the correct tools and time for the task.

Written past Joe Palazzolo and Posted with Permission of CarTechBooks

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Source: https://www.musclecardiy.com/performance/how-to-rebuild-the-rear-axle/

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